How-to · UK domestic

How to add a spur socket

Adding a single spur socket to an existing ring final circuit is one of the more common small electrical jobs in UK homes. The rules are clear — you can only spur from a socket that is on the ring, not from another spur — and getting that identification right is the whole skill of the job.

Helpful video reference. The video above is "How to wire a spur socket to ring circuit" from the POUSE around the HOUSE channel. It runs through a practical UK demonstration of adding a spur socket from a ring main. Watch for the identification step — distinguishing a ring socket from an existing spur is the key check before starting work.

Before you start. Isolate the ring final circuit at the consumer unit. Use an approved voltage tester to confirm the socket you are working from is dead. Do not rely on switching the socket off at the wall — that only breaks the switched live, not both conductors.

1. Confirm the socket is on the ring

Open the faceplate of the socket you plan to spur from. If there are two cables, it is likely on the ring. If there is one cable, it is already a spur — you cannot add another spur from a spur under BS 7671. To confirm it is a genuine ring socket rather than a mid-run loop, do a continuity check between the two live conductors — near-zero resistance confirms they loop around the ring.

2. Plan the cable route

Spur cable must be 2.5 mm² twin and earth, the same as the ring. Plan a route that keeps the cable in safe zones — vertically above or below socket and switch positions, or in surface trunking. Avoid running cables diagonally across walls where they may be damaged by future fixings.

3. Isolate and run the cable

Switch off the ring circuit MCB and confirm dead. Run the 2.5 mm² cable from the donor socket to the new socket position. In solid walls, chase a vertical channel. In stud walls, drop the cable through the void. In surface situations, clip or trunk the cable neatly.

4. Connect at the donor socket

With the circuit confirmed dead, add the new spur conductors to the existing terminals at the donor socket: brown to live, blue to neutral, bare copper sleeved green-yellow to earth. The terminals on a standard 13A socket will accept two conductors. Tighten all screws and check nothing is loose.

5. Connect at the new socket

At the new socket, connect the single spur cable: brown to L, blue to N, green-yellow sleeved earth to E. Fit into a back box appropriate to the wall type — dry-lining box for plasterboard, metal box for masonry. Tighten the faceplate screws evenly.

6. Restore and test

Restore the circuit at the consumer unit. Test the new socket with a socket tester — it should show correct wiring. Confirm the circuit's RCD protection operates correctly by pressing the test button on the RCD or RCBO. If the socket tester shows a fault, isolate again and recheck the connections before using the socket.

Stop and call an electrician if: you cannot identify a ring socket to spur from; the cable behind the donor socket looks damaged or has rubber sheathing; the new socket location is in a kitchen, bathroom or outside (notifiable work); or the socket tester shows reversed polarity or a missing earth after testing.

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Richard adds spur sockets, moves socket positions and installs new circuits throughout east Kent.

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